"If you think about Kevin Keegan's micro shorts when he played for England," says Julian Kilmartin, director of menswear at M&S, "he couldn't have worn boxers under those." In the UK, the tight jeans of the 1970s pushed briefs back into favour. From the 1950s, colour and pattern were introduced, and new fabrics such as rayon, Dacron and DuPont Spandex allowed tighter fits – and even briefer briefs.
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Boxer fans say it's natural to hang free, allowing air to circulate. Proponents of the tighter brief suggest that it's best to have one's package neatly contained. When the Jockeys arrived in Britain in 1938, they sold at the rate of 3,000 per week.įor the rest of the 20th century, the battle of boxer shorts vs briefs swayed back and forth. Coopers, now known as Jockey International, sent its "Mascul-line" plane to make special deliveries of "masculine support" briefs to retailers across the United States. Designed by an "apparel engineer" called Arthur Kneibler (working at the time for Coopers Inc), the arrival of the first underpants denuded of any legs and featuring a Y-shaped opening has been compared with the 1913 invention of the bra, or the 1959 debut of tights. In 1935, the first Jockey briefs went on sale in Chicago. But, in the Thirties, what would become its main rival appeared – the brief. In the 1920s, pants design again borrowed ideas from the boxing ring when Jacob Golomb, founder of the sports brand Everlast, developed a featherweight version of the fighting shorts. Union suits ruled for the first three decades, and Hanes emerged as the leading manufacturer of this less than erotic jersey jumpsuit. In the 20th century, manufacturers patented such earth-shaking innovations as fewer buttons or larger flies. Richer men also wore "chausses", which only covered the legs. Knights wore them underneath their armour. Called "braies", these baggy, calf-length drawers, often made from linen, were worn by peasants and kings. By the 13th century, loose pull-on underpants were invented.
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Their subligaculum could take the form of shorts or a wrapped loincloth. Once the Romans came along, choices began to diversify. The Ancient Greeks had loincloths, although there is speculation that only slaves wore them citizens went commando under their chitons. The garment was tied round the hips with the material hanging down the back, and it was then pulled through the legs and tied.
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King Tut was buried with dozens of fine linen loincloths cut in a natty alternative style – a triangle of fabric with strings on the longer ends. Resembling a nappy, the basic style was a long strip of fabric that prehistoric man passed between his legs and tied around the waist. Well, 7,000 years ago there was, as the remains of leather loincloths have been found by archaeologists. In the beginning, there was the loincloth.